Without argument, Hawaii is one of the best spots to surf on the globe. As early 1779, the British naval officer Captain James King recorded this in his journal:
“The surf, which breaks on the coast round the bay, extends to the distance of about one hundred fifty yards from the shore… Whenever… the impetuosity of the surf is increased to its utmost heights, [native Hawaiians] choose that time for this amusement: twenty or thirty of the natives, taking each a long narrow board, rounded at the ends, set out together from the shore… they lay themselves at length on their board… their first object is to place themselves on the summit of the largest surge, by which they are driven along with amazing rapidity toward the shore.”
Other archaeological evidence indicates that Hawaiians were surfing since at least the sixteenth century, but the sport could date back even earlier, to the ancestors of the Hawaiians in Polynesia. Unfortunately, western missionaries drove surfing nearly to extinction by 1890. But by the early twentieth century, surfing came back to Hawaii with a vengeance: in 1907, an Irish Hawaiian named George Freeth brought surfing to California to the first time, and by the 1950s, Californian surfers were trekking out to the Hawaiian islands in droves looking for bigger and better waves.
Oahu's North Shore
Perhaps the most famous surfing spot in Hawaii is Oahu's North Shore. For more than fifty years, daredevils and thrill seekers have traveled to Oahu to experience the North Shore's dangerous 25-foot winter waves.
One of the surfing world's most famous events, “The Eddie”, is held off the North Shore at irregular intervals. Named for Hawaiian surfer and lifeguard Eddie Aikau, The Eddie is an invitation-only event held only when the North Shore surf is at its fiercest. In 25 years, The Eddie has been held only six previous times – and 2009 was the seventh, with surfers and enthusiastic spectators flocking to Oahu to watch the competition unfold.
Surfing for Beginners
Even though Hawaii is well known for spots such as the North Shore, where huge swells can intimidate even experienced surfers, there are still plenty of surf schools and gentle surfs ideal for beginners and even kids. All of the four major islands (Oahu, Maui, Hawaii, and Kauai) have surf schools on them and are a great way for beginners to get started.
By the way, it's winter time in Hawaii when the waves are the biggest, so beginners surfers who want to try their luck in Hawaii should plan a holiday for the summer or autumn months.
So why not experience the waves for yourself? Let our Hawaii holiday experts help you find the best waves for when you plan to visit. All you have to do is enter your details in the enquiry form below or to the right and our Hawaii holiday consultants will be in touch very soon.
Photo credit: Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) / Kirk Lee Aeder